Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Tahoe Mountain Club Serves Sonoma Style to Truckee




One of Truckee’s best kept secrets, PJ’s restaurant at Grays Crossing, played host to 40+ Tahoe Mountain Club members last month, inviting club members to join them and their talented Chef for a special evening of food and wine pairing. The guest of honor, and the esteemed guest host of the event, was Walter Schug, owner and winemaster of Schug Winery, located in both Carneros and Sonoma, California. Walter, a German immigrant who has spent his entire life around winemaking, was an incredibly personable and gracious host, with a lifetime of history which he so gracefully shared with his audience.  His presentation included a summary of European and American wine history over the past century, including an interesting commentary on how America “lost” its way with wine for a time, shortly after Prohibition began.  Schug’s own father was a wine-maker, focusing primarily on Pinot Noir grapes, a very fragile and easily mis-handled varietal which Walter considers his favorite wine to this day.  Schug’s journey in the wine business took him to America, working for various large distributors of Red and White table wine, all the while enabling him to expand upon his own varieties, starting with his beloved Pinot Noir.  Now considered one of the most knowledgeable Pinot Noir experts in the world, Walter modestly speaks of his achievements, but it is clear the love he has for the art of wine-making has no bounds. 
Our dining experience started with a greeting of Walter’s unique Rouge de Noirs, a sparkling Pinot Noir.  Never having tasted anything like this, it was quite the back drop to an evening of many more delicious surprises.  Noshing on an appetizer of strawberries and goat cheese resting on butterleaf lettuce drizzled with basil, the sparkling wine was the perfect contrast.  We were soon seated for the start of Walter’s introduction, and poured a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, from his Sonoma vineyard.   Paired with giant prawns wrapped in bacon with a heavy cream sauce, the crisp wine again was complimented by way of contrast in the food.  The chef is a fan of creating food which both contrasts with and sustains the wine matched. Conversing with our table mates, Dan and Jamie from Woodland, we decided to have our own wine commentary and critique as dinner progressed.  Very happy fractional owners on Trapper’s Place at Old Greenwood since 2008, Dan and Jamie proved to be a perfect pairing for my husband and myself as well, with similar interests in heli-skiing and enjoying the Tahoe life.  We were happily enjoying our Sauvignon Blanc, when the next pour came, a Chardonnay from the Carneros vineyard.  Hold the phone! This was an incredible oak-barreled Chardonnay, not very buttery, but with hints of fruit and oak and smooth on the tongue.  As velvety as the wine, was the Peking Duck we were served, with a very delicious, very fat polenta and oyster mushrooms (also cooked in the duck fat).  The meal was clearly not trying to appeal to the Weight Watchers of the room, but as a special treat it was appreciated and inhaled by every diner there.  Our fourth course was equally delicious, and made my husband very happy: a very tender beef fillet with braised potatoes and hollandaise sauce.  This was paired with Walter’s beloved Pinot Noir, and it became tastefully apparent why Walter loves this varietal.  After giving us the pitfalls of producing such a delicate wine, our appreciation for creating a very enjoyable Pinot was heightened.   The evening ended with a single caramel chocolate, sprinkled with shaved sea salt.  And of course, this too needed its own wine pairing.  We were served Schug’s Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma, a robust but not top-sided wine that even the pickiest of Cab drinkers would adore. 
As guests prepared to leave, I stood to speak with Walter and thank him for such a delightful evening.  He spoke with such emotion during the presentation, and again now, as we spoke face to face, I could feel the amount of dedication this man had for his craft.  When he spoke of the passing of his wife, who was his rock and his greatest supporter, one couldn’t help but get teary-eyed and feel deeply for this man.  He continues his wine-making tradition in her honor, and all who attended this special evening were very grateful for his openness, his candor, and his willingness to share something he loves so much with the members of Tahoe Mountain Club.  It was an evening I won’t forget quickly. 
*Tahoe Mountain Club is a 4-season private amenity club in the Truckee/Lake Tahoe region which regularly hosts special events such as the wine-dinner detailed above.   For more information or to ask about membership, please call membership at: 530.550.5088, or call me at: 530.318.8280

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